It was a perfect morning to take a walk into town. The tide was not too high and we were able to walk the beach the entire way. We had high hopes to find the pharmacy open, not at 10:00am, 10:30am or even at 11:00am. Next stop was to see if Pinoche had any shrimp, not this morning. And then to see if the encebollado was available on Saturday mornings in town.

As you can see from the picture above we were successful in finding a restaurant open and one that serves that special breakfast soup encebollado. This soup is a fish broth, packed with onions and potatoes (I have been sent a comment from Andy saying that encebollado is made with yuca, I stand corrected, thanks Andy you need to keep me honest here okay) served with fresh cooked albacora or similar fish. I never though in my wildest dreams that I would be eating fish soup for breakfast but you really need to try it. Excellent hardy flavor, delicious flaked albacora, thin sliced onions  in a fish broth…excellent.

This restaurant is located one block past the San Clemente mercado going towards San Alejo. You know how they call a place a hole in the wall, well this is exactly that, two tables with six stools, a small closet type kitchen, one woman cooking and a young man taking orders and serving. Now hold onto your hats, this cost $1 a serving and it came with a bag of fresh plantain chips.  Both Joe and I loved it and will be going back our next morning trip into town. By the way, the bowl was already half eaten when I remembered to take a photo!

25 thoughts on “Encebollado

    • John & Mary, I feel the same way about eggs and bacon but….you really need to try some of this soup. The first time we had it was in Quito, it took a few spoonfuls before I liked it, this is a strong fish flavored soup..I did not think I would like it with the first taste but it actually grows on you and you don’t notice the strong flavor just the flavor of which it has a great deal. Maybe next Saturday we can all walk into town and enjoy a bowl for breakfast, let me know. N

  1. That looks amazing! My sister and I are coming to Ecuador this winter to see if we want to live there. Everything I’ve read (a LOT) says yes. Perhaps we’ll se you in San Clemente – a place that’s quite high on our list.

    • Hi Marilee, Like I just wrote to John and Mary who also live here in San Clemente, it is a strong flavored soup and from the person who only liked the mild white fish I am now loving it…Let me know when you and your sister are planning on visiting and we can get together for a cup of coffee or a “big beer”. Cheers, Nancy & Joe

      • Thanks Nancy – It might take some convincing for my sister to try it (confirmed mild white fish eater), but I”ll work on her. I read your blog faithfully and hope we can get together when we’re there. Can’t wait to see San Clemente among other places in EC. Enjoy the weekend.

    • Hi Maryanne, thanks, I have been in a kind of funk…hope this is the turning point! Happy to hear you are in Salinas, how are you loving it so far? Let us know when you are going to make a trip up the coast and we can get together. I am pleased to let you know that the weather here has been lovely, I have only put on a pair of long pants and a long sleeved blouse once so far, I do take a windbreaker to Vivianas when we go late in the afternoon. Once the sun goes down the wind off the water is a bit nippy for me!!! ha ha Nancy

  2. hey from jama!
    the riverhouse is undergoing some changes, and my kitchen is taking a time out; with no ‘lavoplato’ (sp) it’s not too fun to cook. when leaving today at sunset, the contractor asked, ‘encebollado en la manana?’

    a huge smile was my answer! how about home delivery of encebollado?!!!

    i loved encebollado from the first spoonful and never get tired of it!

    it’s great to see you back, though out of sight does not mean out of mind.


    • Hi Z, thanks so much for your comment. Maybe this morning I can get Joe to walk back into town for another bowl of that soup, I know acting like a little piggy having it two mornings in a row, ha ha. I really need to be blogging, it does soothe my soul. N

      • hey! i could feast on encebollado every single day! i love the little squeeze bottles of limon juice on most tables, and i add my triple serving of vitamin c to my bowl.

        i’m glad your weaning back, though i totally understand.. if there’s no smile in the heart, it’s hard to reach down and find material to share – whether through writing or through art/painting. i went through a long period of not painting in color, when i did paint, my colors turned muddy. it took no psychiatrist’s help to realize when i could paint in clear colors, i would be out of my dark period..

        falling down happens suddenly, but getting back up is often a difficult task. you’re doing well, and again, welcome back!


        • Hi Z, thanks so much for your words of comfort. I am trying to get myself together. I appreciate your words more than you know! Nancy

      • my workers brought encebollado this morning, and it lasted us til late afternoon! yum yum! there’s a great bakery in town that sells banana bread, one serving for ten cents. sunday brunch could get no better!

        i hope that your sunday was equally great!

        • Z, Encebollado and fresh banana bread, that does sound very interesting! We had a great day. I started off for the bus to Cheropoto and the Sunday mercado and got a call from our friend Keith that he was headed that way. Much nicer to shop with someone else, I was able to find some nice sized shrimp $3.50 a pound and even got a few as a regalo and then .50 cents descuento…I felt like I hit the jackpot at the casino. It’s the little things for sure. Then I found pargo filet (snapper) for $2.50 can’t beat that price. Frutilla (strawberries) for $1 a pound, the nice man who sold me my fig tree had another, seems I must have disturbed the root a little too much when I transplanted the first one and it did not make it so he had one to replace it. I will be much more careful this morning when I transplant the new one. We spent most of the afternoon sitting under the trees in our yard either listening to music from our young neighbor or the latest album by Leona Lewis that Joe just downloaded. It was a good day! Nancy

  3. Having breakfast soon and that looks like something we would like to try while we are in Ecuador…enjoy reading your blog so I can catch up with what the two of you are doing as well as picturing our life there…hope you both are well
    Eileen and Jeff (FL still)

    • Hi Eileen, Happy to read your comments. Now when will you and Jeff be making the move? I will be sure to save you a bowl or two of encebollado when you visit next. Be well. Nancy & Joe

  4. Pingback: Morning Update – Monday, October 22, 2012 « South of Zero

    • Good Morning Chuck and Nancy, Sounds great to me, Joe and I don’t drink that much to have to use it for that but it sure tastes great to us. Never thought that I would enjoy fish soup for breakfast but it is excellent. Nancy

    • Hi Andy, You can always correct me, I know I don’t know everything but don’t tell that to my daughter or Joe, I have them pretty much thinking I “know it all”. Joe thought it was yuca but it tasted more like potatoes to me….maybe I am just getting used to eating yuca. ha ha I saw yuca when we were living back in Atlanta but I had never eaten it, do you think after only six years in Central and South American I no longer can tell the difference between them, if so I think that is a great thing.. Nancy

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